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Hello, Good-bye La Paz

I’ve been meaning to write to you about the week we spent on Islas Espiritu Santo and Partida after we crossed over from Mazatlan. These are the two stunning desert islands dressed in layers of pink that lie just north of La Paz. I was going to write about how we were the only boat anchored at Bahia San Gabriel, how “winter in the Sea” stills feels like the hottest NW summer day, how we played in the clear turquoise water that was — admittedly — a little too crisp for venturing out of the shallows. How we buried each other in the soft powdery sand, hiked through giant cactus, and generally just lazed around in the sun admiring the view. I wanted to remember the feeling of our souls recharging, and feeling immensely grateful for being able to visit this very special corner of the earth together as a family.

Until now, we’ve been busy in La Paz this past week getting our chores done so we can head back out again which is exactly what we’re doing in the morning. So we can get back to this:

Sailing to San Francisco, in photos

Hover over photos for description, click to see full size…

Swimming on the Sunshine Coast (Garden Bay, Pender Harbour)

P.S. Loads of photos just uploaded to our Flickr account!

Blasting northwards

 

The graphic you see above is what we’ve been looking at on the Environment Canada website for the past week and a half. Wind, wind and more wind coming directly from the west in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We’ve been waiting for a quiet weather window that just doesn’t seem to want to open.

Yesterday morning, we awoke at 4 am to listen to the current conditions at Race Rocks, the notoriously windy and rough area just south of Victoria. It was blowing 21 knots, with westerly winds of 15 knots further out in the strait with winds expected to increase to 25-30 in the afternoon. We’d decided the night before that we were going somewhere. North, south, east, west– we didn’t care but we’d been in the same general area for two weeks and with so much to explore here we were itching to get exploring.

At 0600, after hemming and hawing over several cups of coffee we hauled the anchor up, still not sure where we were headed.

Suddenly, like an epiphany, we knew were we needed to go.

North.

It was glassy as we motored back up Haro Strait, following our plotted course for Nanaimo, a town we had always wanted to visit but hadn’t before. Now the perfect spot to reprovision, fill up with water, dinghy gas and jump across the Strait of Georgia making our way to Desolation Sound. We didn’t come across any breeze until Galiano Island, but it was just enough to practice flying our favorite new sail for a few miles.

We reached Nanaimo 12 hours later and found the harbour anchorage off Newcastle Island to be absolutely jam-packed with boats and happy laughing people and live music blaring from the shore, the Dinghy Dock Pub, and from most of the boats around us. Wow, we thought, Nanaimo sure knows how to celebrate a Saturday night.

But more boats continued to pour in, drop their hooks and raft up, small and large. Surely something has to be going on here other than a Saturday night. Sure enough, we were able to connect to an open Wifi signal and found out that we had landed during Nanaimo’s biggest weekend of the year: Marine Festival and World Championship Bathtub Race.

We also learned that fireworks were starting in 20 minutes. We got the girls back out of bed and were soon in awe at the most awesome small-town fireworks display we’d ever seen. Right from our cockpit.

What a welcome to the north!

A cruising kid’s dream anchorage

While Holly was napping today Michael, Leah and I were enjoying the afternoon sun in the cockpit. Michael was spying around our anchorage here in Cadboro Bay with the binoculars. He stops his scanning suddenly in the far end of the bay.

“A playground!”

The dinghy is launched and when Holly is up a shoreside excursion commences.

The girls of s/v Wondertime rate Cadboro anchorage as one of the best ever.

Haulout…check!

We put it off as long as we could but finally couldn’t make any more excuses to haul Wondertime out of the water for some new bottom paint and a few other jobs. With only two more weeks until we depart, it was time to get it over with.

Haulouts are never fun: along with dropping $500 just to lift, store the boat on the hard for three days and relaunch, not to mention several more hundreds of dollars just for copper bottom paint it’s a painful time money-wise. Michael is officially unemployed now (yahoo!) so that means that he now gets to go to work with the nasty job of prepping and painting Wondertime’s bottom. And with hauling our two girls up and down the ladder in the toxic workyard not an option, we are pretty much rendered homeless (but as you’ll see in the photos below, we didn’t suffer too badly).

Michael worked non-stop for three days to sand, prep and paint the bottom, install the keel cooler for our new Vitrifrigo refrigeration system and replace the corroded head intake thru-hull. He worked right up until the travel lift came to splash us back in the water polishing the hull paint. Wondertime was looking mighty sparkly when she dipped her keel into the water again we think. Thankfully (except for the bottom paint not going as far as promised and having to rush to Fisheries in Seattle at 4 pm on Sunday to pick up another gallon) all went well during this haul. We are sure glad to get this major milestone checked off.

Wondertime is hauled out: all looks good so far.

Holly wonders what on earth her home is doing flying through the air.

Our boatyard cat is none too pleased about the view

Would you rather be in a cubicle or sanding the bottom of your boat?

Our waterline needed a little adjustment...up of course.

The girls and I spent the weekend at our good friends' beachfront house eating fresh oysters from their farm: a mighty fine way to spend the weekend hauled out.

When your home is out of the water what else is there for a boatkid to do but...play on the beach?

Our new Vitrifrigo keel cooler is installed

Done and ready for launch

Splash!

 

 

Our Favorite Island

Holly has declared that Hope Island is her favorite island. Of course, just this morning she grabbed the stool the girls use to reach the head sink and declared “this is my favorite stool” so I think that she may be using the term generously. Nevertheless Hope Island really is our favorite south Puget Sound island destination. The entire island, over 100 acres, is a State Park accessible only by boat. There are mooring buoys on the west and south sides but the anchorage is so easy that we prefer to drop our hook. If you anchor on the NE side, between Hope and Squaxin Island, both shores surrounding you are devoid of any buildings or evidence of human existence; it feels like a glorious British Columbia anchorage much farther north. (Watch out though for the current here; it runs swiftly. Set your hook well.)

Breakfast on Saturday was a dutch baby smothered in maple syrup, which warmed our bellies and the aft cabin from baking in the toasty oven. We piled in our dinghy for a trip ashore. We’d barely set foot on the sand and the girls were already captivated by the tide line ripe with sea stars, hermit crabs, sea urchins and all sorts of interesting rocks and shells. Our pockets quickly filled and we coaxed the girls into the trees for a hike around the island. An easy 2-mile long trail circles Hope Island and we set off into the brilliantly spring green woods. As usual, we saw no other humans on our trek; even in the height of summer the island is never crowded and we were all alone exploring our very own island wonderland on this visit. We eat our snack by the caretaker’s cabin which is set upon the island’s original homestead, near the perpetually empty campground. Continuing on the loop path, Leah says hello to our old friends Face Tree and Onion Tree. Our trail meanders through towering douglas fir and cedars; it looks like it was mowed by fairies through bright green moss. We arrive back to the beach where our dinghy awaits and another Hope Island circumnavigation via foot is complete. We return to Wondertime for a late lunch and spend the rest of the day lounging around our true island home.

After a long night’s sleep on moonlit millpond waters, Sunday morning arrives. We are always a little sad on our last day of a weekend getaway but we are determined to enjoy the day before thinking too much about the return sail back to our marina and another work week. The sun is actually shining in a brilliant blue sky. It is glorious. Another hearty breakfast and we are off to the beach again. Michael and I watch as the girls run around the beach gleefully, throwing rocks in the water, climbing on logs, finding raccoon prints, turning over rocks to watch crabs scamper around. We draw out the easy morning as long as we can.

We eat our picnic lunch on the beach, then return back to the boat to put Holly in her bunk for her afternoon nap. Exhausted from her beach adventures she falls fast asleep.  We tidy up below then Michael begins cranking in our anchor chain. With a light north wind blowing it’s the perfect chance to unfurl the genoa and start sailing home. So I do and Wondertime is on her way. The wind is perfect all the way back to Olympia, we zoom down Budd Inlet with 15 knots pushing us the whole way. It’s bittersweet though, the returning to port, when it doesn’t really feel like home anymore. Home is where the heart is and our hearts are definitely “out there” already.

(Hover over photos for a description, click for full-size.)

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas

Leah asked us a few days ago if we were going to the same Christmas tree farm this year as last, the one where we would get to feed the goats and ride in the red wagon out into the fields to cut our tree down. She was a little disappointed when we told her, sorry, we were just driving over to the storage unit to dig out our plastic tree. We returned to the boat with the little fake tree that we’ve been carting around for over 10 years and our two boxes of our most prized Christmas ornaments and decorations. The excitement of decorating for Christmas took over and she quickly forgot about the towering, fragrant trees of years past.

“This is our best tree ever!” Leah declared when she saw it adorned with colorful lights and our favorite ornaments.

We agree. It always is.

Happy Halloween!

Happy Halloween from s/v Wondertime!